My first motorcycle road trip: The Route des Grandes Alpes

In June 2011, while living in Lausanne, Switzerland, I embarked on the famous Route des Grandes Alpes on my Ducati Monster 620 i.e, which was restricted to 25kW since I had only obtained my motorcycle license the previous year. My travel companion was my then-boyfriend, who rode a Triumph Street Triple 675 (unrestricted).

This was my first motorcycle road trip and we took a one-week holiday for the journey:

• 4 days to ride down to Menton (France, Côte d’Azur)
• 1 day to relax in Menton
• 2 days to ride back via motorway, passing through Torino, Aosta, and the Grand Saint Bernard Pass

The Route – Stunning Passes and Changing Landscapes

The Route des Grandes Alpes is an iconic ride, covering 720km southbound (from Thonon-les-Bains in France to Menton in France). The return journey was shorter and quicker with 540km. Along the way, we crossed 17 mountain passes, plus the Grand Saint Bernard Pass on the way back.

The highest pass was Col de l’Iseran at 2,764m, while Menton marked the lowest point at sea level. One particularly charming stop was Barcelonette, a picturesque mountain town full of character.

Our goal was to reach Menton in four days, with our seaside hotel already booked. That meant covering about 180km per day. A breeze in a car at 120km/h, taking around 1 hour 30 minutes. But on a motorcycle, weaving through high-altitude mountain passes, it became an all-day adventure.

Unfortunately, I can’t recall exactly where we stayed each night, and the photos don’t offer many clues. In hindsight, I should have documented this holiday as it was my first motorcycle road trip.

Typically  we booked our accommodations a day in advance, choosing B&Bs or gîtes along the way.

Navigating the Old-School Way

We traveled without a GPS or intercoms, just an old-fashioned paper map placed on the tank bag and a series of improvised hand signals.

Communication involved regular stops to discuss fuel levels and route adjustments, along with honking and gesturing on the road.

Regular stops are something to plan in a motorcycle road trip anyway. They allow you to hydrate, eat or snack, take in the scenery, refocus for the next section, and give your wrists a break.

To this date, I don’t have an intercom, and I am not thinking of getting one anytime soon. When I ride my motorbike, it’s a precious moment for myself. I don’t need to communicate with my co-riders on a constant basis, stops and hand signs are enough (sorry, ladies and gents).

What about the music? Although I love listening to music in my car, when I am on my bike, I love listening to the roaring sound of her engine. Also, I don’t have a digital gear indicator, so it helps to hear the engine to get the gear right. Being fully aware of my surroundings and present in the moment.

I do the same when I am running, I don’t listen to music because I need to hear the sound of my own breathing to keep the right pace, and I love to hear what’s going on around me, like birds singing, other runners approaching, etc.

Riding a 25kW Ducati Monster i.e.

My restricted Monster 620 made uphill sections more challenging, requiring frequent gear changes.

We agreed that my boyfriend would ride ahead and wait at the top of each pass, so he could have a bit of fun going up. However, on downhill stretches, I could easily catch up, making the ride fun for me too.

The Beauty of the Changing Landscape

One of the most striking aspects of the journey was the transition from the Central Alps to the Mediterranean Alps.

The changes in scenery, vegetation, and climate were dramatic and unforgettable. The increasing warmth and the sight of the Mediterranean Sea upon reaching Menton felt like a true reward after days of mountain riding.

Weather and Unexpected Challenges

The ride was mostly dry, but we encountered one day of heavy rain. Fortunately, I had a full rain suit, which proved to be a lifesaver—except for my boots, which lacked covers. One of them got soaked, while the other somehow remained dry.

Packing was another challenge, at least for me, as a woman who likes to have enough clothing for each situation. With limited space, I had to be strategic and make sure I had enough:

• Underwear
• Socks
• Clothes for cold mountain mornings
• Hot afternoons on the Côte d’Azur
• Something nice for the evenings.
• Flip flops (non-negotiable), because after a day in my biker boots, I couldn’t keep them on any longer than necessary.
• The rain suit was bulky, but also turned out to be indispensable.

Scout tip: for additional protection in case of rain, pack your things in plastic bags (bin bags, grocery bags, whatever bags you have at home). If your tank bag or back pack starts to let water through, this will still keep your clothes dray and your motorcycle road trip still enjoyable.

A Culinary Misstep – The Andouillette Experience

Our first lunch stop was at a biker-friendly mountain restaurant, where the owner recommended the Plat du Jour—Andouillette. Unaware of what it was, I took a bite and instantly regretted it. Made from pork intestines with spices, onions, and white wine, the strong taste is something I still remember vividly (and not in a good way!).

My First Motorcycle Road Trip – Lessons and Lasting Impressions

• Wrist Pain: The tight clutch and throttle on my Monster left my wrists aching after long riding days.
• Muscle Memory Gone Wrong: Upon returning home, I instinctively greeted the first biker I saw while driving my car—forgetting my window was closed. The result? A loud thud as I smacked my hand into the glass (embarrassing!).
• The Desire for Smart Gear: This trip planted the seed for my passion for multifunctional motorcycle gear. With limited packing space, having clothing and accessories that serve multiple purposes is key for long-distance riders.

Would I Do It Again?

Absolutely YES! The Route des Grandes Alpes is a must for any motorcyclist seeking stunning landscapes, challenging roads, and a true sense of adventure. Next time, though, I’d skip the Andouillette!

Have you ever done the Route des Grandes Alpes with your motorcycle? Where did your first motorcycle road trip take you? Share your experiences in the comments!

I’d love to hear from fellow female riders:

💬 What’s your biggest challenge when it comes to motorcycle gear?
Drop a comment or send me an email—your feedback helps shape the future of Linda-Jean.